Florence back to Modena, and the first days in Rome

As we noted in the last blog, Monday is the World Museum Holiday, so we got up early on Tuesday to get into the Uffizi Galleria. Even before 9am, the queue stretched on and on...so what else could we do? Since reservations had been sold out a week before, we waited...and waited...and waited some more...and then finally...we waited. For 3.5 hours! By the time we got in, we were ready to sit down and sleep a spell. But we didn't we trudged around and our spirits gradually lifted as we saw some of the world's most spectacular Renaissance art. I noticed it was mostly portraits. We saw the entire museum, spending a fair amount of time on the famous pieces, since we had waited so long, and still, we were only in the museum for 2 hours.

Thanks to the inefficiency of the Italian train system, it took us another 5 hours back to Modena (it should have taken maybe 2). Mario and Ely, newly married and looking very relaxed now, graciously met us at the station and we spent the night and following day relaxing in Modena, seeing the sights, and celebrating our 4 year anniversary! Ely's mother, who speaks no English, cooked us a traditional Italian meal. It was a very nice way to celebrate. Of course, there was wine and a tasty cream drink after desert. Modena is the homeplace of true basalmic vinegar, which tastes like nothing we have ever had. You can't even buy this stuff in the USA unless you are willing to spend about $100 for 100mL in a fancy store. Mario's family just happens to make it. They have 5 or 6 flights of barrels (a flight has about 12 barrels). They age the vinegar for a very long time, and each barrel made from different wood imparts character into the vinegar. Katie and I sampled some vinegar that had been aging 30 years...then one that had aged for over 50! Wow. Like syrup of vinegar with most of the acidity mellowed out of it. Sometimes, people drink this as an apertif. We tried it drizzled over cheese. Mmmmmm.....cheeeeese.

The next day, we took an afternoon train to Rome (it took about 4 hours) and checked into our hostel. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking to the Spanish Steps, visiting the Trevi Fountain at twilight, eating a dinner at a pasta place and finally, walking around the ruins of the Roman Forum and Colosseum wjich were eerily and spectacularly lighted for nighttime viewing. We slept poorly due to a guy snoring really loudly...really really loudly. Like he was choking on his tongue and dealing with massive nasal congestion at once. Katie even got up and went over to shake him and tell him to be quiet since the other 5 of us in the hostel dorm room could not sleep. Due to his slight (read: severe) intoxication, he was unable to comprehend this simple request and comply fully. Some of the other people yelled at him with great effect. Thankfully, he was on his merry way this morning, never to be seen (or better yet, heard from) again.

Today we went back to the Forum and Colosseum for a more thorough inspection. Also, the public transit workers are on strike and it is a bit far to walk to the Vatican. Fortunately, tomorrow they are back to work and we can visit St. Peter's. We walked all over the Palatine Hill, where Rome was founded over 2700 years ago! On our way back to the hostel (we just couldn't bring ourselves to walk more since it was at least 90 degrees) we stopped by Santa Maria Maggiore, a big, impressive church, reputedly covered with gold leaf supplied by the first gold brought back from the New World in the early 1500s. The tomb of Bernini is also there, and the open tomb of one of the Popes Pius (I can't now remember the number), with his relics on display.

So, two more days here in the Eternal City then a brief stop in Geneva before going to Paris to take the bus back to London. The end is in sight, and we are actually looking forward to going back to NYC. Living out of a suitcase for this long is really quite tiresome eventually, and the weather is getting very hot. We have had good weather this whole trip (often on the rainy cool side) so we haven't really acclimated to the hot Roman days (and nights....no A/C...ugh). We will put up at least one more blog before then, though, so check back again in a few days. I am not sure if more pictures will go up, but when we get home, we will definitely put up the Italian highlights.